Anyone have a Wideband ??

[Blown5Pnt4]

Hey guys, I'm thinking of getting myself one of those 3gauge pillar pods for my L, and I'd like to put a Wideband, Nitrous, and I'm trying to decide on the last gauge. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone local had a Wideband....If so how hard was the install, or did u have it installed ?? If you had it installed who did it and how much did it cost ?? What brand wideband did you get ?? I'm personally looking at the Dynojet, and the AEM right now. Thanks in advance...

[Axceleratedmotorsports]

Do you have an open bung to install the O2 in? That's probably the toughest part, unless you remove one of the factory O2s and splice into that. I would rather see it seperate from the ecu feedback.
The AEM 6 in 1 is nice. Also check out these www.plxdevices.com. Kind of look like the innovate but a little cheaper. I have not used one of these yet.

[Blown5Pnt4]

No I dont have the open bung yet, but after getting all the info, I was thinking of going to a exhaust shop to get one welded in. The AEM is the one I'm leaning to more than anything.

[Axceleratedmotorsports]

Let me know if you need any prices or info on the AEM :)




No I dont have the open bung yet, but after getting all the info, I was thinking of going to a exhaust shop to get one welded in. The AEM is the one I'm leaning to more than anything.

[Blown5Pnt4]

well so far the cheapest I've found it is RPM outlet, for 299 with an instant 50 rebate. I just have to decide if I want to drill a hole and weld a bung onto my $1800 stainless steel exhaust system....

[Axceleratedmotorsports]

I'll check tommorow

[chutch]

Do you want to do any data logging or do you just want a real-time display (or gauge)?

Since you have a newer EEC (OBD-II) I'm sure there are plenty of WB options out there, but I'll share what I did anyway because I like the PLX product...

I put the PLX M-300 wideband into my 92 mustang (EEC-IV). I didn't want to put another bung on my x-pipe. The M-300 has a WB output, plus a simulated narrowband output so that you can replace one of the factory NB O2 sensors with the WB sensor and the EEC won't know the difference. I did the install myself and it took me ALL day because I had to splice the NB output into the EEC (not fun playing with wires under the dash, through the firewall and pulling the computer out). Not to mention that I had to also wire in a large resistor so that the EEC didn't throw O2 heater codes on me. Anyway, at that point I was able to view the WB signal on the PLX controller LED display in real-time with no data logging or separate gauge. If you don't want to do any data logging and just hook up a separate gauge then just send the WB output signal to the gauge and your pretty much done.

To do any data logging with the M-250/300 you will have to have a separate piece of data logging software. For me since I already had the TwEECer for programming and data logging it worked out perfectly. The TwEECer software allows me to log both the WB signal and all of the other EEC data into one program which I can view or playback at anytime. It took me at least another day to get the data logging for the WB signal wired up and working. If you don't have a separate data logging system then you could always just get a WB kit that has the data logging built in (like the PLX R300/R500 or WB Commander or ...).

I'm not sure how compatible the PLX devices are with your L or if anything that I mentioned would work for you because my EEC is older, so you'll have to do some research. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Craig

[Tommy98016]

pm J, he installed one in his Roush. I think the dynojet kit.

[_J_]

pm J, he installed one in his Roush. I think the dynojet kit.


Thanks Tommy .. yp ..

I got the DynoJet wideband commander, A/F tested on Joe's Dyno at MM
and also Force Performance Dyno .. it shows to be 100% accurate
as the Dyno WB .. however you have to use the software log .. the
display seems to have a .5 sec delay.. it also works great with my XCAL2!!

the install is easy if you use your rear O2 sensor port .. the front 02's
are important!! leave them alone ..

but yeah as long as there is no cats before the sensor you'll get a 100%
accurate reading with the DynoJet WC. install time for me was about 2-3
hours and I was going very slow... I don't know about the others tho..

If you don't get the DynoJet WC do a Dyno A/F test on whatever you get
to see if its accurate .. use the same port for the test and do 3 pulls each..

http://j.mustangcars.com/J/stang/turbokit/jgstang-wk05-721.jpg

[SSmokin 01]

I have the LM-1 with the rpm converter and remote display. I log with it. It's a few $$'s though. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/customer/home.php?cat=248

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product_image.php?imageid=42
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product_image.php?imageid=56

[Blown5Pnt4]

I wasnt really planning on doin any dataloging, being I dont tune the truck myself...I wanted it more for a safety thing.....Especcially since I drive my truck in the winter and what not...

[_J_]

Well the WBC is fully standalone, it just has options to work with anything
In the future as far as logging goes..

In standalone mode you can setup when you are in WOT and what mix high/low
A/F reading most be .. and if it gets too lean or rich it will set off a Warning light + tone..
in real time..

[isdnmatt]

I also use the LM and RPM convertor. I only use the wideband while I'm tuning and really don't recommend leaving it on the car all the time. (I usually just replace one of the 2nd 02 sensors.) You'll go through sensors alot faster when it's not really necessary to constantly have the wideband on there.

You're really not going to save much if an injector clogs or the car goes lean (especially while in boost or even worse boost and nitrous). The delay between the motor and were the sensor is located is already enough time to damage the motor. Tune it right and don't worry about it.

I only have two gauges and dont see the need for any more. I think you got your 3 covered right there, nitrous press., FP, and boost.

[isdnmatt]

http://j.mustangcars.com/J/stang/turbokit/jgstang-wk05-721.jpg
This pic shows what I'm talking about.

While going 100-110+ watching the wideband gauge could be trouble. Not to mention you're going to have a hell of time distinguishing between 11.5 (motor happiness) and 12.5 (dangers beginning).

I know I bearly have time to look at the boost gauge while redline is coming up and FP only gets a glance as it comes up to make sure the trend isn't too radical.

Also, I have that same dash pod with FP on the left side and boost on the right.

[Blown5Pnt4]

I know matt, thats my main reason for wanting the AEM...no guess work, it has a full digital display so you dont have to look at a sweeping needle.

[isdnmatt]

I'm saying that if your car normally holds a certain A/F and then all of sudden you see it spike really lean (this is assuming WOT) or something to make you notice the gauge....it's too late to back out. The gauge is at point only confirming something went down, not preventing.

[Axceleratedmotorsports]

I have to disagree a little bit here. Going lean one time for a few seconds is not going to instantly grenade an engine. I've had guys come in running on a dangerously lean tune for a long time and it's still together. Granted it's not a good situation.

One plus of using the bung after the cat is that after cat readings are typically half a point leaner than actual reading, so you have a little buffer there.

With a correct tune you shouldn't have to be a slave to the gauge. If it's that critical I would rig up a shift light type set-up where at 12.9 afr the light comes on, and then back out. This is the most critcal for boost compensation tuning, say a turbo where you might jump from 15 - 20 psi boost. If your running a fixed amount of boost and a good tune you should be safe.


I'm saying that if your car normally holds a certain A/F and then all of sudden you see it spike really lean (this is assuming WOT) or something to make you notice the gauge....it's too late to back out. The gauge is at point only confirming something went down, not preventing.

[isdnmatt]

I have to disagree a little bit here. Going lean one time for a few seconds is not going to instantly grenade an engine. I've had guys come in running on a dangerously lean tune for a long time and it's still together. Granted it's not a good situation.

One plus of using the bung after the cat is that after cat readings are typically half a point leaner than actual reading, so you have a little buffer there.

With a correct tune you shouldn't have to be a slave to the gauge. If it's that critical I would rig up a shift light type set-up where at 12.9 afr the light comes on, and then back out. This is the most critcal for boost compensation tuning, say a turbo where you might jump from 15 - 20 psi boost. If your running a fixed amount of boost and a good tune you should be safe.

I wasn't saying anything about grenading the engine, but the gauge is an after thought. If something happend to change the reading dramatically, then whats done is done. I've gone lean a couple times when I was running juice and the motor held (although there were bits on alum. on the spark plugs and Joey said there was a white hase that came out the back of the car.)

I was saying to tune the car right and skip the gauge as it's not really necessary. The only reason to have it there is if your constantly making tuning changes, otherwise the tune should have all the variables to compensate.

[isdnmatt]

I know matt, thats my main reason for wanting the AEM...no guess work, it has a full digital display so you dont have to look at a sweeping needle.

Also, the LM-1 has a digital readout as well as does the remote display seen here.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/xd1.php